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Poor Customer Service – Fido – Breach of Contract

April 23rd, 2009 | No Comments | Posted in Business

Dear Fido,

This letter is to advise you of my frustrations encontered with your organization within the past 2 months. Up to this point in time, the only other issues that I’ve had “coincidentally” (note the quotations) occurred 2 years prior. Note: both of these times occurred during the renewal process.

We’ll ignore the past problems as I had let that go after much work to “fix my account” at that point in time (when Fido had operated under Microcell).

Let’s go Back to my current standing. It all started when my 2-year agreement was coming to an end last month. I was constantly called during the day from your renewals department. I had no problems with this as I figured they were just doing their job.

However, my concerns come from a customer service perspective: every time they called, I requested to have them call during the evenings and asked them for a call-back number. Time after time, they had apologized for not reading the notes on the account and failed to give me a number where they could be reached.

The sad part of this is that I spoke with 3 CSRs who acknowledged my request but have failed to review the notes on the account before calling. (Pay particular attention to this area as it foreshadows my growing frustrations with Fido).

After 1 week of daily calls, your renewal department decides to call me on a Saturday!

Fast forward a week or so, I decided to call Fido to cancel my contract. I had some problems with the data usage on my account and had decided that I would rather cancel my account rather than dealing with more frustrations from Fido. I spoke with a few individuals and the first of which offered to add a data-plan pro-rata to the beginningo my billing cycle which turned into a nightmare to correct. (Errors from inputs from the CSR + duplicated charges).

The CSR quickly transferred me to your loyalty department (AKA retentions) and I had told the rep that I was planning on switching to Rogers due to my growing pains with Fido. The response that I gave when asked “why?” was simply that my entire family uses Rogers and I’m interested in buying a Blackberry Bold. Also, the amount of work that was required to correct issues

The retention rep then asked me what it would take for me to stay with Rogers and I simply said: if you an offer me a decent plan then I would consider resigning with Fido. (At this point in time, Fido had just released their BIS [Blackberry Internet Services] so I figured that I would simply buy an unlocked Blackberry Bold and make arrangements with Fido. I made it very clear that this was my intent and received acknowledgement from the rep that this was OK.

At the end of the conversation, we had come to the agreement that I would be getting the iPhone for $230 ($299 – $50 credit – $Fido).

Make a note of this amount.

I had also been offered a plan which had met my needs and I had confirmed that there would be no problems adding BIS onto my account at a later time.

A week passed by and I called Fido back to add the BIS account to my account. I had managed to get my hands on a Blackberry Bold within the week. Remember: I mentioned to the retention rep that I was really seeking a Blackberry. The CSR that I spoke to at this point in time walked me through activating the handset and I was on my way. At the time, I was a happy camper: I had renegotiated my contract to the terms that I was looking for, at the price that I was looking for, and I had my new Blackberry to play with.

Who knew that this would eventually stem into a whole new stem of problems. Two days after I had added the BIS service, I checked my online account to find that my contract had been RE-EXTENDED for a WHOPPING 6-YEAR contract. I was obvious furious at this point, since this was a breach of contract and I HAD NEVER agreed to re-extend the contract. My concern was that if I had NOT paid attention to my account standings, this would eventually be missed down the line.

I called in again and spoke with a very understanding individual (they all seem that way, don’t they). As I spoke with this CSR and advised her of the breach in my contract terms, I made it very clear that I would like to confirm all of my terms and ensure that all aspects were met. I made it very clear that the CSR should make VERY detailed notes explaining the terms and costs on all of my existing terms.

At the end of the end of the call, we had confirmed that my plan rate would be: $17.50 + 10 (unlimited Fido2Fido and Fido2Rogers) + 15 (BIS) = $42.50 with the system access fee and 911 charges waived for the entire term.

Fast forward to today, I review my online billing and am charged $310 for the iPhone (if you recall from earlier, I was quoted $230 on my renewal) and additionally $62.50 for my monthly charges. Obviously, I am frustrated. After more than 7 calls (4+ hours), falsified claims, breach of contracts, I am still back at square one: trying to correct my terms back to my AGREED upon price at Renewal. (That’s not asking for much.)

At the end of my call today with ZYIAD, I had been told that my monthly charges will be amended to 41.50 NO SAF&911 but I highly doubt that this will be accomplished. I mean, let’s face it, 8 calls later and I’m still back at square one. On top of that, no changes will be applied to the phone price that I agreed to sign on? Absolutely ridiculous.
As for your CRM system (ticketing system), I specifically asked the 3 individuals that I spoke with today to review my call history. I mentioned that I have made 7 calls in the past month and a half just to correct my terms back to my renewal. For the majority of the calls made, very limited notes were made and some listed without the agent’s names? How is this even possible???

At the end of the day, I have wasted my time, been accused of a liar, have had my hopes shot down time after time (believing that Fido had rectified my problems), and ultimately regret resigning with Fido.

Should I have known that I would encounter these issues, I would have never re-signed with Fido.

Alternatively, I would have:
a) saved myself the hassle of buying an unlocked BB Bold and activating the BIS through Fido
b) bought a discounted phone @ Rogers
c) would not have bothered to negotiate a unlimited network calling plan (my family uses Rogers)
d) automatically have access to Fido’s so-called “Expanded network”

In due time, I will either cancel with Fido or simply WILL NOT re-renew after the 2 consecutive renewal experiences that I have dealt with. To be blunt, I would rather pay a $400 cancellation fee than deal with your CSR department. Who knows, I might even get an 8-year contract next time!

I hope this email serves the purpose of highlighting the poor performance delivered by your CSRs and Retention departments. As you know, customer service is key to retaining a customer but from my experiences, Fido is just too much of a hassle to continue a lasting relationship.

Also, for illustrative purposes, CRM works in a two-fold manner: excellent customer service is rewarded and often shared with 1 or more individuals; poor customer is shared with 7 or more individuals. As a result, I will never refer a peer to Fido ever again due to your poor customer service standards.

Regards,
Alan

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How to make money playing Blackjack online

April 20th, 2009 | No Comments | Posted in Entertainment

I recently made a post about Blackjack reference cards and the basic strategy for Blackjack. While, I do enjoy gambling, it’s very important to know your limits; otherwise the game can become a very dangerous addiction. My best ‘result’ in Blackjack yielded me $4,000 USD from a $50 USD investment. If you do the math, that’s a 8000% ROI (Return on Investment)! That WAS NOT a typo! What’s more impressive is that I made this in under 40 minutes!

I recently got into playing at JackpotCity and I must say that I am impressed with my results so far. The site offers a $500 USD credit to being playing and you can win up to $200 of that amount (assuming that you haven’t lost it), simply by making a $100 deposit! In fact, I just made and cashed out with a $500USD profit (see below)!

jackpotcity
[Click to enlarge]

I’ve played at several online blackjack sites but this one has become a personal preference. The interface is rather typical, but the variations of Blackjack and the ability to cash out at ANY TIME makes this one stand out apart from the others. On top of that, minimum bets start from $1! Note: the majority of online casinos have minimum bets of $5. This makes it frustrating to play if you only plan to start out with $35 or so (recreational play).

However, as you should be aware: Blackjack is a game of probability. This also means that at some point, there will be losses. You win some; and you lose some. With my ‘best result’ above, I had been up to $5,000USD at one point, but made some foolish $300 max bets and splits on poor plays. I realized at that point, my emotions were affecting my gameplay and cashed out immediately.

The biggest challenge that I face when playing Blackjack is when to cash out. For myself, after I have general “feel for the game”, I become over confident with my game play and occasionally risk it all. In fact, I’ve had many instances where I was up $700+ and simply lost it all! Obviously, this is very frustrating after realizing that I could have made a net of $500+ but made poor decisions in the end.

So how do you avoid this from happening?

Blackjack, should be treated as a game of probability. Make it a game to beat the odds, rather than playing to make money. For example, if you consider it as a game and stick to minimum bets only, you will be able to determine whether you can beat the odds (or not). Make it a game of numbers and see if you can predict the outcomes. Just to reiterate, play it as a recreational sport rather than aiming to do this professional. You may get there eventually, but start by making it a simple numbers game.

To illustrate this point, let’s say that you cash in at $100. Keep in mind: most online casinos have a minimum bet of $5, (real casinos have a tendency to start at $15-25). If you happen to start with a streak of terrible cards, you have at a minimum 20 chances ($100 / $5 = 20 hands) before hitting the bank again. However, if you stick to the basic strategy of blackjack and use the reference cards, you can optimize your chances of winning and also to maximize your winnings.

If you split, double-down, and hit at the appropriate times, you can easily see yourself in the green. After a certain point in time, check your pot to see if you’ve made a gain. If you have… then great! Keep at it and use this basic strategy to see how much you can make!

Another suggestion is before starting to play, make a goal of when you’re willing to cash out. Let’s say for example, you started with a $100 buy-in and decide if you make $50, you are willing to cash out. Do not go below this threshold and maintain your composure at all times!

At some point in time, you may need some variation with Blackjack and this is where sidebets start to come to play. You may have seen players at the casino making side-bets on top of their current bets and wondered how this works. It’s simple really and varies depending on the variation of Blackjack.

As the name implies, side bets are simply bets made on the side. Basically you’re making it a 2-way game instead of one. The most common side-bets on Blackjack involve progressive betting and matching pairs. Alternatively, variations of these include betting on suits and the payouts each vary as well.

Some examples include:

Lucky Queens – payouts are based on matching pairs and max payouts 200:1 if 2 Queens are dealt to a player with at least one queen of hearts.

High Streaks – bets are placed on progressive wins. If a player continues to re-bet his bet on the next hand, payouts can reach a maximum payout of 10:1!


  • SidebetPayout Sample
    Initial bet-$5
    2nd streak bet1:1 Win $5 ($5+$5)
    3rd streak bet2:1 win $10×2=$20
    4th streak bet5:1 win $20×5=$100
    5th streak bet10:1 win $100×10=$1,000

  • As you can see above, if you are able to win consecutive wins, the sidebet increasingly gets higher. In the example above, a $5 sidebet could potentially lead to a $1,000 payout! Note: You can cash out of your sidebet after each hand and do no necessarily need to keep going. In most casion cases, players cash out once they have reached the $100 payout level (4th streak).

    JackpotCity has a wide variety of Blackjack games which vary from multi-hand, high stakes, and side betting. See below for a sample screenshot of page 1 of 4!

    blackjackgames

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    Blackjack Basic Strategy: Reference cards

    April 17th, 2009 | 3 Comments | Posted in Business

    Blackjack, also known as “21″, is one of the most popular casino games that is played. The game is relatively simple to learn and involves players going head-to-head against a dealer. In short, the person closest to 21 without going over wins (I will go into more details below). The game is essentially a game of probability and forecasting cards. If played statistically, you can significantly increase your odds.

    In addition, often various side-bets are applicable depending on the game of Blackjack being played. Some examples of these variations include: Spanish 21, Lucky Queens, Blackjack Swap, etc. Whilst I won’t go into too much detail with these mini-games, it is quite possible to have a great return simply on these side bets.

    The following chart illustrates the point values of each card in a standard deck of cards. As you will see, the “Ace” can have a point value of either 1 or 11. Note that in Blackjack multiple decks are used to try and reduce the ability to count cards and cheating.


    CardValue
    A1 or 11
    22
    33
    44
    55
    66
    77
    88
    99
    1010
    J10
    Q10
    K10



    ,
    The Game

    The standard game of blackjack works in the following way:
    1. Players are asked to place their bets on the table. Once all bets have been made, the dealer will issue a last call.
    2. The dealer then hands each player with a bet a single card “face up” (including himself). (This reveals all cards on the table.) Once a round of cards has been issued, the dealer distributes the next card to each player — again face up. Note: the dealer then places his/her card face down masking his/her card total.
    3. The dealer puts “the action” to the the player on his/her left (clockwise). The player becomes the active player and is asked what play he would like to make.

    The player has a few options:


    OptionDescriptionHand Motion
    StandPlayer is comfortable with his/her card total. No further action requiredWave or Stop
    HitPlayer is dealt another cardIndex finger pointing down and making contact with the table
    DoublePlayer is dealt one additional card at the expense of doubling the initial betPlayer matches initial wager and on the table and says “double”
    SplitPlayer is issued two same-value cards (I.e. 2-2, 3-3, 10-10, 10-J, J-K, Q-10) and has the ability to “split” the cards into two separate bets.Player matches initial wager on the table and touches the table with both the index and middle finger spread apart (inverted “peace sign”)



    4. If the player “busts” (has a card total greater than 21), the player loses his or her bet, and the action goes to the next player on the table (if any).
    5. Repeat steps 3-4 for the remaining players. Once all parties have particpated, the dealer the flips over his/her “face-down” card. The dealer must hit until they have a total of 17 or greater. For example, if a dealer shows a 6+7 (card total of 13), the dealer MUST take a hit.
    6. Once the dealer has reached the minimum total, the dealer compares his hit-total with the other players on the table. This is done in a counter-clockwise fashion and bets are either taken away or matched, depending on the outcome.

    Once you have grasped the basic concept of Blackjack, the following reference tables should give you an idea of when to hit, stand, split, or double. For example, if a dealer shows a face card of 2-6, it can be assumed that the face card will be a 10 or a upper valued card. This means that the dealer is likely standing on a 12-16 card total and must take a hit. In other words, the dealer has a high chance of busting.

    Note that casino players assume that you have a grasp of the basic play listed below. Although players go head-to-head with the dealer, ultimately, your plays will affect the other players on the table. This means that a foolish play could cause aggression and frustration to others. However, note: at the end of the day, it’s your money on the table and that should be the deciding factor on any play that you make.

    Good luck on the tables!

    Blackjack Reference Card for mixed cards

    S = Stand
    H = Hit
    Dh = Double (if not allowed, then hit)
    Ds = Double (if not allowed, then stand)
    SP = Split
    SU = Surrender (if not allowed, then hit)

    Blackjack Reference Card for soft hits

    S = Stand
    H = Hit
    Dh = Double (if not allowed, then hit)
    Ds = Double (if not allowed, then stand)
    SP = Split
    SU = Surrender (if not allowed, then hit)

    Blackjack Reference Card for Paired cards

    S = Stand
    H = Hit
    Dh = Double (if not allowed, then hit)
    Ds = Double (if not allowed, then stand)
    SP = Split
    SU = Surrender (if not allowed, then hit)

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    AirMiles Toolbar Hacking?

    April 5th, 2009 | 1 Comment | Posted in Hacking, Technology

    I recently made a post explaining how the AirMile toolbar works.  Please refer to it should you require any further background information on the subject:  http://alanwashere.com/articles/airmiles-toolbar-free-airmiles/

    From the above link, you should now have an understanding of how the AirMiles toolbar works.  Essentially, AirMiles are awarded based on your search data and FreeCause is compensated accordingly (affiliate marketing).

    So what does this mean exactly?  Well, frankly if you are a webmaster and involved with affiliate ads or links, you are potentially being hijacked of your referrals!  It’s time to put matters into your own hands… well sort of.

    Before reading any further, please ensure that you have read and acknowledged the Disclaimer.  Under no circumstances is alanwashere.com endorsing nor responsible for any actions or consequences for the material below.  This post is for illustrational purposes only.

    USE AT YOUR OWN DISCRETION/RISK.  This constituates as Fraud and is for educational purposes only.

    Let’s start with the basics: a long time ago when the Internet began to boom, a company called AllAdvantage had dominated the market by paying users to surf the web!  Just imagine:  getting paid to surf the net — sound familiar?  The AirMiles toolbar pretty much does the same job, but you get “paid” in AirMiles instead of receiving a check.

    Going back to the whole Alladvantage subject, eventually programmers discovered how the program had actually worked.  The Alladvantage program simply kept track of mouse-clicks and movements.  In turn, these programmers/hackers developed very basic applications to simply automate mouse-clicks and movements.  (This repetition is also known as a macro (or a programmed set of instructions).

    With the use of macros, users all across the globe were banking on this ‘loophole’ or flaw with the AllAdvantage software.  People were now getting paid to leave their computers running and letting the Macro run overnight, during the day, or throughout the entire day!

    More info:

    Fraud and Abuse

    Many early AllAdvantage users attempted to utilize spamming techniques to artificially build up their referral numbers. In the first months following the company’s launch, email service providers and anti-spam services identified emails referencing AllAdvantage as spam, resulting in wide-spread blocking. Shortly after hiring an anti-spam expert as the company’s Chief Privacy Officer, the company implemented significant changes in its affiliate promotion and referral policies, including a system to enable quicker reporting and termination of spamming accounts. By 2000, the reported volumes of AllAdvantage-related spam had reduced significantly.

    AllAdvantage was also the target of other fraudulent activities, such as attempts to simulate surfing in order to accrue credit. These techniques were based upon the manner in which the AllAdvantage “Viewbar” tracked the time that users actively spent browsing the web, through the detection of which applications were “in focus” as well as keyboard and mouse movements. In an attempt to defraud the company, several client-side applications were created that attempted to simulate surfing-related interactivity, including one called “MyAdvantage.” Initially, such applications were successful at simulating a user’s 20 hours of surfing, however those applications were limited in their negative impact on the company for several reasons: their usage was limited to relatively few “hacker hobbyists”; fraudulent users received no direct compensation beyond the established minimum surfing time while the company received advertising revenues based on average surfing times of the entire user base. The AllAdvantage software was frequently updated with detection algorithms derived from analysis of many of the simulators and was able to flag “suspect” surfing accounts for withholding of any payments while giving users the appearance of still accumulating their fraudulent hours.

    Now that all that has been said, the same concept can be applied with the AirMiles toolbar.  The flaw or the loophole with this toolbar is that it simply tracks the volume of searches that a user makes and can easily be manipulated.

    How it’s done:

    1.  Install the AirMiles Toolbar

    2.  Download and install some sort of Macro plug-in for your browser.  For example:  https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/3863

    or http://www.sharewareconnection.com/download-iopus-internet-macros-from-sharecon.html

    3.  Restart your browser, open the macro and let it run.  (You may need to do some background reseach on each of the above to understand how to execute them.)

    If executed properly, you can easily making 300 searches within a 20 minute time period.  Rinse and repeat every month to earn a very easy 360 AirMiles per month.

    Please note:  you may encounter an AirMiles page that prompts that you are running potentially malicious software on your machine.  Simply, pause the activity and resume at a later time.

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    AirMiles Toolbar – Free Airmiles!

    April 5th, 2009 | 1 Comment | Posted in Business, Technology

    AirMiles released a new Yahoo toolbar recently to collect 5 AirMiles per every 50 searches through Yahoo search engine (up to a maximum 30 AirMiles per month or 300 searches/month).  The concept is simple:  collect AirMiles on your everday searches, with a couple of conditions:

    • Must install the AirMiles Toolbar
    • Must use Yahoo search as your search medium

    For full details on how to use the toolbar, please visit:  https://www.airmiles.ca/arrow/ToolbarInstall

    Pay particular attention to the FAQ on the above link.  Namely the following:

    Q. Who is FreeCause?
    A. FreeCause is a private company we have partnered with to bring you the AIR MILES® Toolbar.

    Q. Why am I accepting a FreeCause End User License Agreement (EULA) when downloading the AIR MILES® Toolbar?
    A. Because AIR MILES® has partnered with a FreeCause, a private company, to bring you the Toolbar, it’s necessary that you accept their End User License Agreement.

    This should be an indicator that AirMiles has partnered with a 3rd party company to collect data and send/receive potentially secured information involving everyday searches and/or purchases made online.  The toolbar itself works in an interesting factor:

    1. Tracking the number of unique searches made within the cycle (1 month).
    2. Alert messages when accessing sites that do not earn AirMiles and suggesting alternatives (partnered companies).
    3. Listing your previous month’s AirMiles balance.

    This all sounds like a great idea, but what’s the catch?  There has to be a catch, right?

    The simple answer is No.  However, more realistically there is a catch.   As I noted earlier, the 3rd party EULA (end-user license agreement) allows FreeCause to collect data which the toolbar is in use.  What this translates to is that your search criteria and habits are all being tracked by the toolbar software.

    Other Concerns?  (For webmasters)

    The AirMiles toolbar is a nightmare for affiliate marketing.  The problem with the toolbar is that it hijacks all purchases made through various links and/or websites and treats them as their own.  In simpler terms, referral links and affiliate companies will not given credit for links that were used on a pariticular website.  That is, if you have your own website with your own affiliate links, you are not being credited for links that are being clicked on — EVEN on your own site!

    In summary, the AirMiles Toolbar is a great tool for everyday consumers that use the Yahoo search engine on a regular basis.  For others that prefer using the Google search engine, the Yahoo search is a bit hard to get used to.  Personally, I found it frustrating to ’switch over’ to the Yahoo search because it does not match my searching needs as much as Google.  However, for earning up to 30 AirMiles per month, this is a small sacrifice to pay.

    The disadvantages of the toolbar that I could find are:

    1. Hijacking of affiliate links/referrals
    2. Alert messages can get irritating after a while
    3. Seems to slow down “the interet experience”

    Overall, I think it’s a great way to earn AirMiles.  If you maximize your searches each month, you could potentially earn up to 360 AirMiles per calendar year!

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    Tips on Repaying loans and improving your credit score

    April 4th, 2009 | No Comments | Posted in Finance

    The current market conditions can be blamed heavily on incurred debt and the inability to repay loans: on a mass scale, this is what caused  the recession and the current market conditions.  Further to this, banks haved tightened up on their lending procedures to avoid making the situation evern worse.  Fortunately in Canada, we were not so much impacted by the subprime crisis and are in better standings than the American economy.  However, this does not necessarily mean that the Canadian economy will rebound quicker than our American counterparts.  Typically, during a recession, consumers tighten up on their spending habits which inevitably causes the market to shrink. For an individual trying to get out of debt, the goal here is to curb the unrequired spending habits while ensuring that  safety standards are met.

    People with large oustanding credit balances, may feel the credit crunch and may resort to relying more heavily on their credit cards, loans, or line of credits (LOCs).  The impact of these types of measures is that the interest that is charged on each account could possibly outweigh the minimum dues.  In other words, debt becomes an endless cycle of minimum payments that are equal to or less than the interest being charged!!

    This article will suggest a few technique to manage debt and how to repay debt.  The first step in reducing debt is to acknowledge your mistakes and make life-changing decisions to get out of your stiuation.  This might include packing your own lunch, taking public transportation, carpooling with a colleague, and so forth.  The more cash flow that you have or can create, the quicker and easier it will be to rectify your debt situation.

    Now, let’s take a moment and begin by listing out all of your credit-related balances as well as their corresponding interest rates.  For example you might have something like the following:
    1.  Credit card #1 — Outstanding balance of $5,000 @ 9.99% AIR (Annual Interest Rate)
    2.  Credit card #2 — Outstanding balance of $8,000 @ 17.99% AIR
    3.  Line of Credit (LOC) — $15,000 @ 4% AIR
    4.  Mortgage — $250,000 @ 7%

    At this point in time, you should have an idea of where you stand with your credit.  It is important to note that should ALWAYS make your minimum payments for each of your accounts to avoid having your credit score taking a hit!  Various credit bureaus such as TransUnion, Equifax, FairIsaac, Odyssey, etc. calculate credit (beacon/FICO) scores based on credit utilization and payment history.  Therefore, make sure that all payments are made on time with at least the minimum payments!

    Now, list out the minimum payments for each of the “variable” accounts.  By this, I’m referring to the accounts that are “not-as” important as the other accounts.  To explain this thought, let’s look at the mortgage.  Regardless of the interest rate, mortgage payments should take priority in terms of which bills should be paid.  Let’s face it:  you could potentially have your house foreclosed.  Next, failing to pay an LOC would affect your future ability to take out a loan.  You should also plan a monthly budget to have a better picture of your current standings.  Food, shelter, and other satety needs should be met first before making any plans on paying off debt.

    Getting back on the case in point, let’s put some random numbers in place:
    1.  Credit card #1 – $20/month
    2.  Credit card #2 – $40/month

    Now, while it is important to make the minimum payments on all our your credit balances, the key point in reducing your debt is to pay off one element at a time.  As you may recall from earlier, you should have an idea of which accountsare being charged at a higer interest rate.  To reduce your long term debt, the best approach is to take things one step at a time:  Pay off the cards with higher interest ratings first.  Then, rinse and repeat and pay off the next one, until finally you are complelely out of debt.

    The reason for this is is relatively straight forward:  the higher interest card will cost you more in the long run.  In the same regard, another recommendation is to apply for a line of credit and do a balance transfer to your credit card accounts.  This will lower the amount of interest that you will pay throughout the year and should give you more leverage in paying back other loans.  Be careful with this advice however.  As I noted near the beginning, managing your debt should be a life-changing decision.  If you have not accepted this, you may in fact put yourself in a deeper hole by applying for a line of credit.  (I.e. maxing out your LOC would be a terrible mishap).

    In summary, debt management is simply a method of keeping track of your expenses and cash inflows. Once you have established your goals in reducing debt, managing it shouldn’t be too hard.  The important thing is to keep a budget and pay off the higher interest items first and take things one step at a time.

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    Fido Retentions plan – Negotiating Power

    April 1st, 2009 | 1 Comment | Posted in News, Uncategorized

    This post is in reference to a Fido Retentions thread on RedFlagDeals.com/forums.  In particular, please see:

    http://www.redflagdeals.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8522790&postcount=3764

    [QUOTE=sw1ft;8522790]Took about 5-6 calls with Fido.  They goofed big-time and my account showed that I signed a 6-year contract (negotiating power).

    200 minutes
    Unlimited E/W from 5pm
    2500 text messages
    VM/CID
    F2F
    $17.10 (EPP)

    + $10 to add F2R/F2RHP
    + $15 BIS/Email (Blackberry plan)
    + $10 Unlimited incoming
    - $10 credit
    No SAF/911 Charges
    ~ $43 + taxes[/QUOTE]

    This is EXACTLY what I’ve been trying to get (minus F2F) from retentions for the past 2 days, but they won’t budge on the VM/CID.  What was your technique in negotiating?

    The 1st agent I spoke to offered me the regular $25 and $17.50 retention plans – I said I’d think about it.  The 2nd agent kept insisting that he can’t modify the other agent’s offer and that I need to speak with the other agent. I asked him to just make me a new offer and he flat out said he can’t. Do I have to straight-up say that I decline the previous agent’s offer before a new agent can offer me something else?

    I tried the “playing dumb” and being polite route, but that didn’t get me anywhere. I’m so close to using the “I know you can do it, I know people who have gotten credits” method but my only proof is this thread and HoFo…

    I’ll have to admit, this one was really tricky to do and I’ll say that I got lucky.  This involved a minor issue on my last billing cycle, which eventually turned into my advantage.

    Fido call #1:
    I upgraded to 2.2.1 on my 2g iPhone, without realizing that the jailbreak would restore the default EDGE settings.  Low and behold, I downloaded 7.8 MB on that same night and my data charges were through the roof ($230 in data).  I called Fido to see if the could do anything about this and mentioned that depending on how they handle the situation, I would cancel my contract and would NOT renew with them.

    The CSR was very understanding and offered to add 500MB data onto my account retroactive to the beginning of the billing cycle.  This way the $230 data charges would be $25 instead.  I was happy and hung up.

    Fido call #2:
    The next day when my bill notification arrived and the balance still showed $230 in data charges + $25 in data charges + a $1 pro-rata charge for data.  I knew at this point that the original CSR must have keyed in the dates incorrectly so I called back to have this rectified.  After I confirmed that my account had been corrected, I left it at that.

    A few days later
    ============

    Retention Call #1:

    I called Fido and told the CSR that I was cancelling my plan –> transferred to the ‘loyalty department’ (AKA retentions).

    I mentioned that my contract up was expiring in a month and I was considering switching to Rogers.  I noted that I was looking to buy a Blackberry Bold, but would reconsider now that Fido has BIS and I would make other arrangements to buy an unlocked phone.  (I eventually bought an iPhone to sold it to buy a bold).  I then hinted that if they could give me unlimited network calling at a good rate, I would reconsider resigning with Fido.

    The CSR asked me what price range I was looking for and I said “$35″.

    He came back at me and said that this was impossible for unlimited network calling but could do F2F (unlimited Fido to Fido calling) for $31.50.  I insisted that that F2R (unlimited Fido to Rogers) calling and F2RHP (unimited Fido to Rogers Home Phone) was the critical factor here and could not do without it.  Anyways, he came back and told me that this would cost $47.50 (NO SAF/911).

    Believe it or not, I agreed to this ($47.50) and was ok with the price.  I figured that this is what I normally pay (now) but I get what I really wanted:  unlimited network calling.

    Fido call #4:
    After I bought the Bold, I called back to add BIS/Email to my account.  (Note:  This was another $15 on top of my current plan.)  Out of curiosity, I asked if the CSR could review the notes on my last call to see what the price would be on my new upcoming renewal.  He advised that he couldn’t see any notes on the account aside from a “new plan starting April 16, 2009″.  In any case, my goal was to simply add BIS/email to my account.

    Two days later, I checked my online account and my contract now read April 2009-April 2012.  I had been monitoring my account daily with expectations that Fido would screw up and this held true.

    Fido Call #5:
    I spoke with the CSR and mentioned that I upset to find that my contract had been re-newed on top of my re-renewal.  The CSR made the correction and mentioned that this had been done in error.

    I simply said at this point that if I had not paid any attention to my account standings, this may have been missed entirely.  It would also be a breach of contract since I did NOT agree to a new 6-year term.  My concerns were that if I ever decided to cancel after 3 years, this may cause future problems.

    At this point, I asked the CSR to review the notes on my account and to confirm all the changes on my account.  I had mentioned that every call that I’ve ever made with Fido results in numerous calls to correct the issues.  (i’ve had similar problems with my previous renewal and had to escalate to a supervisor).

    The CSR then reviewed my account and mentioned that she could see that a $17.10 base plan had been added to my account, but this had only been for [B]F2F[/B].  This was frustrating at the least… note that earlier that I agreed to F2R/F2RHP and that was my original reason for renewing.  I brought this up to the CSR and she had added it back to my account.

    I then asked her to tell me the cost of my new account and to repeat all the options that I had been entitled to.  I also asked for a goodwill credit (one-time $20 credit) for all the calls that I had to make to get my account cleaned up.

    In summary, the original Retentions rep may have just given me the EPP plan even though it was technically “no longer available”.  After a few calls and starting to get really annoyed with Fido, I made them give in to my demands.  A few mishaps with Fido Retentions turned into immense negotiating power.

    It’s also important to keep your eye the goal:  don’t take any bullshit  and fight for your rights.

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